Most Common Issues

• My polished porcelain floor does not seem to have an even shine.
• My tiles are warped.
• My tiles are scratched.
• My frieze tiles do not match the plain tiles.
• My tiles are not square.
• The patterns on my frieze tiles don't line up.
• The glaze on my tiles is flaking off.
• My tiles seem to have small cracks on the edges.
• The metal finish on my décor tiles is tarnished or wearing off.
• My Shower is leaking through the tiles.
• My tiles have been laid, but they are wrong or damaged.
• The edges and joints of my tiles are uneven.
• My tiles have defects in the surface.
• My tiles are fading.
• My tiles are changing to a darker shade.
• Some of my tiles are thicker than the others.
• My tiles are different sizes.
• My tiles seem to be different to the ones that I selected.
• Some of the tiles on my wall or floor are the wrong color.
• My tiles are wearing out.
• My wall tiles seem to have hairline cracks in the glaze.
• There are cracks running across my tiled floor.
• My tiles have popped-up, or they are buckling.
• My floor tiles are "drummy" or loose.
• My wall tiles sound hollow and "drummy" and are about to fall off the wall.
• My tiles have blisters.
• The glaze on my tiles is flaking off.
• My tiles are chipping.
• My grout has gone crumbly and soft.
• My grout has gone dark, or black.
• My grout is going white.
• My porcelain tiles are stained.
• My tiles are always dirty.
• The glaze is missing around the edges of my tiles.
• My tiles seem to be a darker color in the shower than the rest of the room.

Problem:
From time to time, tile distributors, builders and architects receive calls from clients who are concerned about their newly tiled floor. The issue generally relates to a new floor that has been tiled with polished porcelain tiles. Porcelain is a fantastic, tough and very durable product that makes an ideal floor surface. It is easy to live with, easy to clean and maintain and will look brilliant for many, many years. Polished tiles reflect light and make an area brighter, more inviting and create an illusion of space. As with polished marble or granite, the face of porcelain tiles can be ground to achieve a lustrous finish. But, there can be an unrealistic expectation that the finished floor should be a "mirror finish". This is not possible.

What can cause the problem?
It is important to remember that the first inspection of a newly tiled area is usually in an unfurnished room. Often, this means bright, unfiltered daylight, no soft furnishings, and no other surfaces that will reflect shade, shadow or tone. Each tile has slightly different reflective properties due to the polishing process. Plus, when laid, each tile will be on an ever so slightly different, 'tilt' or angle in the adhesive bed. If a surface is textured in some way, or even if it is microscopically rough, light rays will reflect and diffuse in many different directions. This reflected light will manifest in different ways, depending on the light source and intensity. If a ray of light could be observed approaching and then reflecting off a mirror, the behavior of that light as it reflects would follow a predictable law known as the law of reflection. For an extreme example, intense sunlight shining through large windows and doors early in the morning will increase the amount of variation in a polished tile's shininess. This variation in the shininess of an area will only be visible when a direct light source reflects at a certain angle across the surface.

So what can I do now?
Be patient. In most cases, once the new area has been furnished the effect will be much different. It is important to understand that this is only an early stage of the finished project during construction. With polished porcelain tiles, this variation is not related to cleaning and has no affect on the technical performance of the tile. It is simply an inherent characteristic of the tiles.

Problem:
Due to the process of firing a natural product like a ceramic tile, it is expected that every tile is not going to be absolutely perfect. Warping of the tile itself is one of the more common issues in manufacturing. This is why there is an International Standard set down to specify the acceptable tolerances for warping in tiles. If a delivery includes tiles that seem to be warped, your tiler would generally elect not to lay these ones.

What can cause the problem?
Any warping in a ceramic tile will happen in the factory during manufacture. It is important to realize that a certain amount of warping across a tile is acceptable under the standards. The calculation for acceptable warpage is related to the size of the tile and the degree of warp across the length of the tile. Although all Tiles are graded within the set tolerances, sometimes poorly graded tiles can slip through and be packed as first grade.

So what can I do now?
If there is any concern regarding your tiles, contact the Customer Service & Support Toll Free #. If the tiles fall outside the standards, we will replace them, or credit them if you prefer. Excessively warped tiles should never be installed on site. If they need to be removed and reinstalled, the tiler would be expected to do this at no charge. If there is any doubt about a tile, it should not be installed.

Problem:
During freight and delivery, glossy tiles can become scratched. This can happen if two tiles are rubbing against each other during freight and transport. If this does happen, it is usually with wall tiles that have a softer glaze than the tougher floor tiles. Naturally, we do not want scratched tiles to be installed in your home, and neither do you.

What can cause the problem?
No-one wants scratched tiles installed in their new home. Scratched tiles are more likely with glossy wall tiles and the scratches usually happen while in transport. Your tiler should not install any scratched or damaged tiles. It is standard practice and the responsibility of the tiler to put any damaged tiles aside. In the Standards, a scratch is defined as such when it can be observed easily from normal viewing distance. For example on a floor, a scratch would need to be seen without bending over from a standing position. If you need to get close to the tile to find the scratch, technically, it is not a scratch.

So what can I do now?
If the tiles have not been installed, contact the Customer Service & Support Toll Free #. We will arrange to exchange the damaged tiles, or credit them if you prefer. If the tiles are fixed to the wall there are two options to look at. The best option is for the tiler to replace the scratched tiles. These should not have been installed, so the tiler should make good the job before completion. In specific circumstances, with small amounts of scratching, a glass repair service can remove some scratches from tiles, the same as glass can be repaired.

Problem:
Some tiles have a pattern applied to a finished plain tile. Then, the tile is fired in the kiln for a second time. This process is called "second firing". For very intricate patterns that include a number of colors or materials that are hand applied, the tile can be third fired or even fourth fired. The complication is that some glazes actually react and change color slightly on the second or third passing through the kiln. This can occur if kiln temperatures vary from firing to firing. If the plain and pattern tiles do vary, we always highlight these variations to our clients when a selection of tiles is being done. If the difference in color between the plain to decorator is obvious, the installer should make the customer aware of this before continuing to install the tiles.

What can cause the problem?
Some pattern and frieze tiles require a second or third pass through the kiln. When this happens, the body tile glazes can react and change color slightly with each re-firing. Each batch of tiles can be a different shade or, "tonality", to the last production run. Because pattern tiles don't always sell in the same mix ratio to plain tiles, we may supply frieze tiles that are correct in every way, but not the exactly the same tonality or background shade. Our staff will have graded them as acceptable to mix, but you may not be prepared to accept them. Sometimes, we just mess up in the warehouse and send two batches of the same tile by mistake.

So what can I do now?
If you are not happy with the tiles, do not lay them. Call the Customer Service & Support Toll Free # and they will arrange to exchange the tiles that are not a good match for alternative ones. Replacement tiles can be shipped direct to your home or exchanged at the retail location in which purchased was made. If you are not satisfied with any of the replacements available, we can issue a credit on the returned tiles. If the patterned frieze is suitable, but the background tile that it is applied to is not, then your tiler can cut the frieze from the body tile and install it as though it were a purpose made listello or strip tile.

Problem:
Being a natural product that is kiln fired, there will always be some tiles in each batch that show some imperfections. It is not common for glazed ceramic tiles to be out of square. Plus, before packaging, tiles are sorted and graded to remove any that were. Sometimes a few can slip through the system. These tiles are perfectly sound, but all the same are imperfect. The generally accepted standard allows 5% of any first grade consignment to have some imperfections. 5% means that 5 tiles may have some imperfections in each group of 100 tiles. The tiler will always put these tiles aside and use them when a cut tile is needed.

What can cause the problem?
If your consignment includes a couple of odd shaped tiles, your tiler will use these where cut tiles are needed. To lay them will just cause the tiler unnecessary grief trying to square up the grout joints. Some "extruded" or quarry tiles are made in such a way that each tile is slightly longer than it is wide. This is standard for this type of tile and your tiler will realize that each tile needs to be laid in a particular direction and using wider grout joints. Slate and sandstone are quarried stone that can often be slightly out of square. This is typical of the product due to the way it is cut into tiles and why wider grout joints are used when laying. Mosaic tiles can be placed "off square" on the mounting mesh. This mesh can also be creased if the tile boxes take a severe knock on the edge or if the boxes are stacked on their side for transport.

So what can I do now?
If your tiles purchased, consists of a lot of odd shaped tiles, call the Customer Service & Support Toll Free #. Something has gone wrong and the tiles will need to be replaced. If the tiles are of mosaics that have been placed wrongly on the backing mesh, call the Service & Support Toll Free #. We will exchange the affected sheets. If your tiler decides to lay them and spend the extra time needed to straighten each tile while laying, that is his choice. We would not expect to compensate the tiler for extra time spent laying the tiles. If the tiles have been installed we will re-supply you with replacements for the faulty tiles. Your tiler will need to remove the faulty tiles and install the new ones. Visually imperfect tiles should never be installed unless specifically requested by the owner.

Problem:
Imperfect frieze tiles, borders and patterns sometimes slip through the sorting and grading process in the factory. These tiles are not intended to leave the factory, but it has been known for a few imperfect tiles to slip through. Somehow, the pattern is not straight or complete, or the colors are wrong. During tiling, if there are some faulty pattern tiles, the tiler will not install them, but put them aside. Beware of course for the hand made tiles and those décor tiles that are actually intended not to match each other in a border, or to have definite color variation from tile to tile. Especially in the Provincial, Rustic, Mexican and Santé Fe styles. With these tiles, the variation is part of the charm and attraction for the series.

What can cause the problem?
Production of modern friezes, borders and patterns can be quite an involved process. When we think of the thousands of different decorator tiles to select from, and the variation in the finishes on offer, it is easy to see how every now and then, something can go wrong. A flaw in the screen print An error in the application of glass before firing Even the temperature of the kiln can cause an imperfect décor tile. And of course, these tiles are not intended to be installed. The tiler will put them aside and replacement tiles will be shipped directly to your home or an in-store exchange or credit can be arranged at the retail location in which purchased was made. As always, the tiler is applying a finish to a floor or wall that will last a long time. The tiler will know not to install faulty, unacceptable or visually imperfect tiles.

So what can I do now?
If the tiles have not been installed just take them back to the retail location that you purchased them from or call the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will swap the tiles. Or, if you prefer, issue a credit. If the tiles have been installed we will re-supply you with replacements for the affected tiles. Your tiler will need to remove the faulty tiles and install the new ones. Visually imperfect tiles should never be installed unless specifically requested by the owner.

Problem:
If the glaze on your tiles seems to be peeling off, it is referred to as, "delamination." This is a manufacturing fault in the tile and is caused by a contaminant on the biscuit when the glaze is applied before firing. The problem generally does not manifest itself until after the tiles have been laid and are in everyday use. So, the tiler, the factory and the retailer are unaware of the problem until we hear a report from a concerned client. If the tile is delaminating, we will arrange for the affected area to be re-tiled. However, impact from falling objects or heavy furniture being dragged across tiles can cause some chipping. This is abuse of the tiles and while it can damage the glazed surface, it should not be confused with delamination. Abusive damage to a tile will void any warranties.

What can cause the problem?
Delamination is a manufacturing fault. It is usually identified by an obvious white layer located between the body of the tile and the glaze. This film can not be seen until the glaze separates from the tile body. When this happens, the glaze chips off in slithers, or chips that have no biscuit attached to the glaze. Abusive damage and impact from hard or heavy falling objects is not to be confused with delamination and this damage is not covered by the warranty. Generally, impact damage will also chip the biscuit of the tile

So what can I do now?
If your tiles are delaminating, contact the Service & Support Toll Free # to arrange for repair or replacement if necessary.

Problem:
During manufacture, sometimes a fault can occur that causes what appears to be a crack in the glaze. This is called a "firing crack." Generally, these tiles are removed during sorting and grading before they are packed. If a few were to slip through the process, they are not to be installed. The unmarked area of the tile is sound and quite suitable for using as a cut tile, but the damaged glaze makes it unsuitable for a whole tile to be laid.

What can cause the problem?
Tiles with a firing crack are not to be laid whole on an installation. This is a manufacturing fault and the tile has slipped through the sorting process in the factory. A tiler should put any tile with a visible fault like this to one side and use it for a cut tile when needed. These tiles will be exchanged or credited by the Retailer where they were purchased from, no questions asked or by direct home delivery, arranged by contacting the Service & Support Toll Free #.

So what can I do now?
If a few imperfect tiles have been laid, especially with firing cracks, they should be replaced by the tiler before the job is finished. If the tiles have not been laid, call the Service & Support Toll Free # and they will arrange to exchange or credit the tiles for you.

Problem:
Gold, silver and other metal finishes are quite common on tiles and they can really look effective, especially in a bathroom. But, while it is generally accepted that tiles are a very durable and long lasting surface, metallic finishes are not protected by a glazed surface and therefore can be damaged. Gold is a very soft metal, and when applied onto a tile surface, it can be easily damaged by abrasives and harsh cleaners. Silver also, is a soft metal. Many other finishes are more durable, but still, susceptible to damage, or wearing off when attacked by harsh cleaners. Treat these tiles correctly, and there will be no problems.

What can cause the problem?
Gold and Silver especially, are soft metals and easily scratched and worn. During installation, these plated finishes need to be protected with tape, especially when grouting the tiles. Grout consists of sand that can be quite abrasive. Harsh scourers, abrasive creams and powders and strong chemical cleaners can cause havoc on metallic finishes. And besides, they are totally unnecessary to clean tiles. Warm water and a drop or two of disinfectant is all that is needed to clean tiles, and that goes for these more delicate décor tiles also. Then wipe over with a soft cloth. Remember always, that just as with tapware and other household items that are plated with these types of metals, the surface is not guaranteed after installation.

So what can I do now?
Once the tiles are installed, if the plating is damaged or wears off, there are only two choices to be made. Accept that over time the surface will eventually totally wear off. Replace the tiles and avoid all harsh or abrasive cleaners and chemicals. Neither the factory, nor Retailer will entertain a claim against worn metallic surfaces on tiles.

Problem:
Unfortunately, leaking shower recesses are one of the most common building faults and complaints in the U.S.. It really doesn't need to be the case though. The modern waterproofing systems that are available and the tough building codes that we have mean that with correct installation, a shower recess should never leak. (except due to extreme structural movement) Remember, that a tiled and grouted surface is not actually waterproof. The waterproofing membrane under the surface is. A leaking shower recess can lead to structural damage and expensive repairs. As soon as a leak is suspected, it should be investigated and repaired. Since the early 2000's waterproofing of wet areas, is accompanied by a guarantee, provided by the accredited waterproofer. (in most states)

What can cause the problem?
If your bathroom smells musty, the tiles are changing to a darker color, damp patches are appearing on the other side of a wall or any other symptoms of a leaking shower are evident, it can be due to... Water can penetrate behind the tiles in a number of ways.

• pinholes in grout
• poorly grouted tiles
• leaking pipework behind the wall
• no puddle flange installed under the floor grate
• no fluid aprons installed around tapware in wall penetrations
• internal corners and bottom row of tiles not grouted with silicone
• cut edge of tiles exposed in shower
• structural movement of building
• waterproofing membrane not included in installation
• tiles not bedded into adhesive correctly

And a list of other reasons that generally point to poor workmanship or not following the building code.

So what can I do now?
A leaking shower is a repair job for an expert. The first step, if the installation is still covered by a guarantee, is to call in the builder or waterproofer. Otherwise, call a plumber to determine if there is a leak in the pipe-work or tapware. Call a builder or tiler to repair the grout, silicone joints or other cause of the water leaking. If it is obvious that the problem is due to cracked, missing or very soft grout and silicone, you may like to repair it yourself. Talk to the Service & Support Toll Free # about receiving a fact sheet with instructions on how to do it. When re-grouting, use grout booster in place of water to make the grout more flexible. And, don't forget to use silicone in all internal corners, and the bottom row of tiles in the shower recess. Always install fluid aprons around the taps and shower rose. As an added security, spray the grout joints with Grout Sealer using the trigger spray pack. Depending on the damage the water has caused in the shower, the best way to fix this sort of problem is to retile the whole shower enclosure. Making sure that proper installation procedures are followed.

Problem:
We are only human, sometimes we can make a mistake and mislabel the boxes or ship the wrong tiles to the site. It can be frustrating for our customers to receive an incorrect product, but we will always arrange to correct the mistake immediately. All tiles need to be checked by the builder, tiler or homeowner before the tiles are installed. This is standard practice; otherwise the wrong tiles can end up being installed. Our sales and deliveries are always accompanied with paperwork and sometimes even sketches specifying how and where the tiles are to be laid. Also, when tiles are being laid, it is standard practice for the tiler to check the tiles for damage and faults. Sometimes breakages can happen in transit. Otherwise, imperfect tiles may end up in the installation, and no-one wants that.

What can cause the problem?
Tiles can become damaged in transit, or at the factory and sometimes this damage is not obvious if the packaging is still intact. It is standard practice for tiles to be checked as they are laid. Sometimes, human error intervenes, and the wrong tile is packed or shipped to site. The builder, tiler or homeowner must always check a purchase or on site delivery before installation commences. Otherwise, the wrong tiles may end up being installed. Naturally, the retailer cannot be held responsible once the tiles have been installed.

So what can I do now?
As long as the tiles haven't been laid, call the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will arrange to exchange the tiles for the correct ones. If your installer has installed blemished, damaged or the incorrect tiles, there is not much we can do. The tiler must take responsibility for installing the wrong, or imperfect tiles.

Problem:
A good, professional tile laying project will ensure that all the joints are even and the edges of each tile are nice and level. When two tiles are not level and the edge of one is higher than the next, it is referred to as "lipping." If a tiler leaves the project with lipping tiles, he should be prepared to fix them.

What can cause the problem?
"Lipping" can occur if the tiler sets large or heavy tiles into a thick bed of adhesive and the tile settles or slumps unevenly into the adhesive. There are special adhesives available for these large format tiles that will minimize this issue. If a tile is not quite flat, extra care must be taken when laying to avoid "lipping." There are standards within ceramic manufacturing that allow for a certain amount of curvature across a tile. Only tiles that satisfy the standard will be sold as first grade and these can be laid without any "lipping." The standards also cover an allowable variation in tile size, or dimension. Within this standard, tiles can be laid without obvious uneven or crooked joints. All our Tiles are graded within these tolerances.

So what can I do now?
If the finished tiled floor has uneven grout joints, or "lipping" on the edges of tiles, you will need to talk to the tiler or builder about rectification. The issue of lipping can cause a person to trip. Also, where the surface of a floor between tiles is uneven, it is likely that the tiles will chip. This is especially the case if heavy furniture is dragged across the uneven edge. Your tiles will last a long time, and you should expect that they are laid flat and even with even grout joints.

Problem:
Being a natural product that is kiln fired, there will always be some tiles in each batch that show imperfections on the surface. Before packaging, tiles are sorted and any with visible imperfections are removed and graded and sold as seconds. A few will always slip through the system. These tiles are perfectly sound, but all the same are imperfect. The international standard allows 5% of any first grade consignment to have some visual imperfections. There are a few factories that will up to 15%. 5% means that 5 tiles may have some imperfections in each group of 100 tiles. The tiler will always put these tiles aside and use them when a cut tile is needed.

What can cause the problem?
If you have a tiling project that has obvious imperfect tiles installed, then it is simply because the tiler has not checked the tiles as he laid them. Defects such as firing cracks, craters, bubbles, pinholes, smudged pattern, etc. are all visible things and the installer should put these tiles aside for using when cut tiles are needed.

So what can I do now?
If a few imperfect tiles have been laid, there are two options open for you. Either accept that there are a few imperfect tiles in the installation, or replace them. If you have a few spare tiles left on the job, the tiler will be able to replace the suspect tiles. If you don't have spare tiles you will need to find out what the batch or shade of the tile is. Contact the Service & Support Toll Free # or visit the retail location in which purchase was made and the staff will be able to determine if that shade is still available.

Problem:
As we know, tiles will not fade, and neither can they tan in the sun. However, tiles can be affected by continual harsh acidic or alkaline cleaners. This is especially so in areas like a shower recess where cleaners are sprayed onto walls and left to pool on the shower floor. The reality is that tiles do not need these powerful and harmful cleaners. They can actually etch the glazed surface and simply make the tile more likely to trap dirt and grease and be harder to clean next time. These acids can also bleach the color out of some glazes. The other situation that can occur is that a film of soap and body fats can accumulate on a shower floor and dry to leave a white film. Each time the shower is used, the film builds up a little more. This occurs when the grout haze is not fully removed and polished off when the tiles are laid and the film attracts and grabs the soaps and fats. Then the tiles appear to be turning white.

What can cause the problem?
All tiles, except specific industrial tiles are susceptible to acid or chemical attack. This is due to the prolonged use of unnecessary acidic or alkaline cleaners, especially in shower recess areas. Otherwise, the build-up of body fats and soaps in showers can make a tile appear to fade. This usually starts when a film of grout is left on the tile at installation. This film grabs dirt and soap and builds up. It is accentuated when the shower is cleaned again with rinse-less cleaners that are spayed on and wiped off. These leave a film behind each time and that builds up over time. To test for this, try scrubbing a small area of the floor with just water added. If you can get suds to appear, that is the cause, and we can fix it easily.

So what can I do now?
If your tiles have been etched by acids, the only solution is to replace the damaged tiles. Then, only clean your tiles with warm water and a drop or two of disinfectant. If you really insist on using cleaners, use Concentrated Tile Cleaner. This is ph neutral and low suds. Twice a year, use Heavy Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner for a thorough scrub down. If you believe that the discoloration is due to a build up of soaps etc, scrub with Heavy Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner and rinse well. This should bring the tiles back to new. But, from then on, warm water and a drop or two of disinfectant is all you need. Or use Concentrated Tile Cleaner.

Problem:
Simply put, tiles can not change color. Tiles are an inert product. They do not fade in sunlight and neither can they tan, or turn a darker shade. However, if a tile is wet and sitting in water, the biscuit of the tile can become wet. All tiles will absorb moisture to some degree, depending on the type of clay biscuit. And then, just like wet chalk, or a sponge, the biscuit will appear to be a darker color. If the glaze on a wet tile is white or a very light color it tends to be "translucent", or see through. The darker background biscuit will then make the tile look darker than other dry tiles. In extreme cases, even when the tile has fully dried out, the biscuit will stain and the color of the tile appear to have changed somewhat.

What can cause the problem?
Water absorption is the only way that a tile can appear to have changed color. If water has penetrated behind the tile, or is caught behind the tile it will travel and soak into the biscuit of the tile. Water can penetrate behind the tile through holes in the grout, missing grout, or poorly applied silicone joints. Especially, if there is a partly blocked drain and a slow draining waste and the silicone joint in the internal corners of a shower are not intact. Or, if there is a leaky water pipe behind the wall. Or, if the waterproofing system does not include a "puddle flange" to remove trapped moisture between the tiles and waterproofing membrane on the floor. This is why this situation usually manifests itself in a shower recess.

So what can I do now?
If you notice that the tiles in your wet area, especially in the shower recess have changed to a darker color, the situation needs attention as soon as possible. It is an indication of a problem that can cause long term structural damage if left unattended. It is not a problem with the tile, but the installation, or perhaps a serious water leak. Call your builder, or a plumber to test for a leak in the water service. They will also be able to advise if the waterproofing includes a puddle flange in the floor and if the project is fairly new, explain why there is not one installed. Or, it may be there, and the special built in gutter just needs cleaning out. Check for any obvious, visual faults or weak points in the grouting and silicone joints. If it appears suspect, remove the grout in the affected areas. Using a fan heater on low, dry the tiles out slowly. This should bring them back to normal appearance. Re-grout the tiles using grout mixed with a "booster." Apply silicone to all corners in the shower. Purchase and install special, "fluid aprons" as an added insurance around the tap penetrations.

Problem:
If the tiles that have been purchased for your project are different thicknesses, but have been sold as the same tile or series or batch, there is something wrong. Tiles that are produced from any one batch will always be the same thickness. Marble and granite will be machined and rectified into tile size pieces, and can be expected to be consistent in thickness. However, with some quarried product like slate, there will be a variation in thickness between each tile. That is because slate and stone is split from larger slabs. Your tiler will sort the slate by thickness before he lays it.

What can cause the problem?
A variation in the thickness of each piece of slate is normal and part of the way it is quarried. The slate is usually sorted into different thickness piles. The tiling commences with the thick tiles first and the thinner ones are built up to the level of the thick ones with the adhesive. If the glazed, porcelain, or terracotta tiles you have are different thicknesses it is probably because they are different tiles. They may be from two manufacturers or two plants each making a different type of tile. Never expect tiles that are sold as being the same tile or series to vary in thickness.

So what can I do now?
There is nothing wrong with mixing tiles of varying colors, textures, sizes or thickness on a project. As long as each tile is suited for the purpose used, thickness is just another variation. Make sure that your tiler is aware that he will have to allow for the difference in the process of tiling. The tiler may need to change adhesives on your project to one that is suitable to be built up thicker than standard. If the tiler has laid the tiles and the variation in thickness has not been allowed for, there will be definite steps in the floor or wall. This is not really acceptable and the tiling will need to be repaired or replaced.

Problem:
Glazed ceramic tiles will always have a small variation in size from tile to tile in each batch. This is due to the fact that they are made from natural clay and silica's and then fired at high temperatures. During the manufacturing process, the tiles shrink to their finished size. Before being packed, tiles are sorted for color "tonality" and size, or "calibration" based on certain accepted industry standards. Glazed tiles are laid with spaces or grouted joints between them and so this variation is taken up in these grout joints. Vitrified, porcelain or full bodied tiles are "rectified" in the factory. After firing, these unglazed tiles are fed through a machine that actually cuts or grinds the tiles to size. These tiles have very small tolerances in size variation. Of course, from time to time, a malfunction in the sorting process may allow tiles to be packed with an overly generous variation in size.

What can cause the problem?
Tiles shrink during manufacture, and that shrinkage can very from tile to tile. The U.S. industry standards, ensure that the variation is kept to an acceptable level. For example, a tile 300mm x 300mm is allowed to vary in size up to 2.25mm either side of the work surface. This means that the tiles can be 297.75mm to 302.25mm and still be within the standard.

So what can I do now?
Relax. Your tiler will tell you if the tiles vary in size by too much. To satisfy your curiosity, you can lay a box full of tiles on the floor and see for yourself how the size variation can be taken up. If you still think that your tiles has too much variation in size, call the Service & Support Toll Free # or take a box back to the retail location where you purchased them. The store will check the variation, and also, call through to the warehouse to see if that variation is indicative of the rest of the stock. If we have stock that is more dimensionally accurate, we can then arrange to swap your order for a new one. If that is not acceptable, the only other option is to reselect your tiles. Whatever the situation, the tiler should not lay tiles if the variation is too great, or if you are not going to be happy with the finished job. We can't be held responsible once the tiles are laid.

Problem:
Each batch of tiles that are produced tends to be a different shade or size to the ones that were last made. The final kiln temperature, slight changes in glaze mix and dozens of other variables can affect the final tile appearance and size. This is referred to as "tonality" (shade or color) and "calibration" (size). This variation is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles because they are made from natural clays and silica's that react differently to the manufacture and firing process. It is quite possible that the tile that was selected in the store will be a different shade to the tile supplied when ordered or delivered. This is more likely, the longer the time between purchase and/or delivery to site. We update our displays and show the current batch "tonality" wherever possible, but we always stress that it is important to check the tiles on site before they are laid in case the shade is not acceptable. This is also the case with carpet, fabric, and timber and is something that we all need to be aware of, in order to avoid any issues.

What can cause the problem?
As explained, shade variation is an inherent property of ceramic tiles. It is important to check the tiles that have been purchased to ensure that they are the color that was selected. Sometimes, a tile that has been installed in a large area can look completely different to the selected tile. This is especially the case in a room that is incomplete and maybe without much lighting. The room and the tile appearance changes dramatically as a room are being completed. Taking the sample to the room usually demonstrates that there is no need for concern. And, once the room is completed, the ceilings painted and lights installed, the finished room is just what was planned.

So what can I do now?
If the shade that is purchased is different from the original selection, and you are not happy with the current batch, contact the Service & Support Toll Free #. The first thing we can do is try to find some stock of the original, selected shade. We also may have another shade of the tile in question and can offer that as an option. If we can't find a suitable shade, the only option left is to reselect another tile. Finally, if we have nothing suitable, we would need to arrange a credit for the tiles. Naturally, once the tiles have been installed, we can not be responsible for any variation in shade to the original selection.

Problem:
Each batch of tiles that are produced tends to be a different shade or size to the ones that were last made. The final kiln temperature, slight changes in glaze mix and dozens of other variables can affect the final tile appearance and size. This is referred to as "tonality" (shade or color) and "calibration' (size). This variation is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles because they are made from natural clays and silica's that react differently to the manufacture and firing process. All tiles are sorted in the factory and packed according to set tolerances for shade and size as well as being separated as "first grade" or "seconds", or "commercial" quality. So, it is important to recognize firstly, that several different batches of the same tile may vary quite dramatically. Enough in fact, that if they are mixed in one room, they can look like chalk and cheese. This is also the case with carpet, fabric, and timber and is something that we all need to be aware of, in order to avoid any issues.

What can cause the problem?
Sometimes, things can go wrong in the factory, in the warehouse, or tiles may even get mixed on the truck in the delivery to site. If you have a mixed shades, it is important to let us know before they get laid. Then, we have a chance to correct the tiles. Two batches may have accidentally been delivered to site. Two batches may have been mixed when packed onto the pallet in the store. But, a mix up of shades can also happen if the tiles were purchased at separate times, or at different retail locations, and the salesperson wasn't told of a previous purchase. If we know that you have purchased some tiles already, we can highlight this to check for the right batch at purchase or delivery. All we need is the batch number, shade (tone) and size (calibration) and we can try to match them and avoid the possible problem. Ultimately, it is important to check the tiles for size and color before they are laid. Then, we also recommend that tiles are mixed from different boxes as they are laid. Tiles that have obvious variations in shade should never be laid.

So what can I do now?
If the tiles have not been installed, contact the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will arrange to replace the mis-matched batch, or re-supply the full order with one matching shade. It is important to arrange this as soon as possible to avoid any disappointment. Our tile range is changing constantly as we keep abreast of the latest on offer and your selection may not be available in stock for replacement. If you are in the unfortunate situation where the tiles from two or more batches have been laid, then there are only 2 choices. Accept the project as laid, or arrange for the tiler to replace the tiles that do not match. Generally, we will offer to supply tiles to replace the mis-matched stock at no charge. But naturally, we can't be held responsible for them being laid when they do not match.

Problem:
Tiles are well known for their durability and wear resistance. But, we need to always remember that tiles are not indestructible. If mistreated, or subjected to harsh conditions, or wrongly selected for purpose, the glaze on a ceramic tile will scratch or it can wear. There needs to be an understanding of the difference between "wearing" and "scratching." Wearing is where the glazed surface is thinning and eventually actually worn through. Scratching is damage to the surface from a harder substance that scratches the glaze. Heavy scratching can actually "dull" the surface of a glazed tile. It is damage to the surface, but it is not actually wearing through. Much like granite in a heavy traffic area will dull off from scratching, but it is not worn. The best way to avoid tiles becoming worn is to get good advice when selecting them. This way, tiles that are suited to the area can be chosen and that includes for reasons such as color, ease of cleaning, durability and resistance to wear. The other way is to keep the floor clean and free from sand and abrasive dirt. This is especially important at doorways to the outside of a home or building. Abrasive grit is brought in under shoes and if there is a doormat, this grit is removed and left on the doormat. Even gravel (which can be granite hard) can be trapped under a shoe and then trodden onto the tiled surface.

What can cause the problem?
Absence of doormats at doorways to the outside of a home. These remove grit and sand from shoes which can be very abrasive on tiled surfaces. Think of sandpaper, which can actually just be sand trapped on the paper, yet it is so abrasive. Incorrectly specified tiles that are not suited to the traffic conditions of an area. Always heed the advice of the sales person and explain clearly the conditions that the tiles will be subject to. They will help you to select the right tiles with the right wear resistance. In the worst case, soft glazed wall tiles, laid on a front verandah or heavy traffic area will wear through very quickly. Keep your tiles clean. A clean tile won't have a film of accumulated grinding dirt on the surface. Avoid the use of unnecessary chemicals, especially acid based ones and the use of hard cleaning implements such as steel wool. These too will deteriorate the surface of a tile.

So what can I do now?
Once the glaze on tiles has worn, it can't be rejuvenated in any way. Likewise, damage by harsh scratching can not be reversed. Scratched tiles will continue to perform as a tile should. But, once a tile surface has worn through, and the protective glazed surface is gone, the tile will need to be replaced.

Problem:
From time to time, small, hairline cracks can appear in the glazed surface of tiles. This phenomenon is referred to a "crazing." Tiles are not designed to craze, but it is a recognized inherent property that can occur with glazed tiles. A crazed tile will still perform properly and there is no reason for concern. Crazing can often be seen in old or antique pottery or chinaware. If we consider that a tile is a glass surface on a clay background and when "fired" in a kiln, the two materials bond. Crazing can occur when the glass and the clay expand or contract at different rates in an installation. The important issue is that a crazed surface is not a crack through the tile.

What can cause the problem?
As explained, crazing is an inherent property of ceramic tiles. Sometimes it just happens and can't be explained. But it is not detrimental to the performance of the tile. A heavily glazed tile that is subject to widely varying temperatures from in front and behind the tile may exhibit some crazing more easily than other tiles. The glaze and biscuit are expanding and contracting at different rates. It has been recorded that if a "high bond" adhesive is used in a thick application behind a porous biscuit tile, it can effectively bend the tile. This can cause the glaze to craze. Continuous movement of a substrate or structural wall can also cause this phenomenon.

So what can I do now?
A crazed surface will not affect the performance of the tile. Generally, most people will simply ignore the issue. If your project seems to have an extreme case, or it is personally annoying, then the only way to resolve it is to replace the tiles. We can assist in the replacement of crazed tiles. The cost to replace crazed tiles can't be charged back to anyone in particular.

Problem:
If you notice that one or two (or in bad cases, several) tiles have developed a crack across a corner of the tile, then it is almost certainly due to faulty application of the adhesive. The tiler has not achieved full coverage of adhesive under the tile and there will be a "void" under the tile. When pressure is applied to that tile, it will crack. This can be a chair leg, table leg or even someone walking over that tile with stiletto heels. The pressure on that section of tile, if it is not supported will cause it to crack or break. It is easy to find if this will happen to any more tiles in the installation, or is an isolated one or two. Tap the tiles with a hammer handle or screwdriver handle. Where there is a hollow sound, there is a void below the tile and that tile is a contender for a future crack.

What can cause the problem?
Simply, there is not enough adhesive on the floor, under the cracked tile to support it fully. This is why tilers will lift a tile at regular intervals during a project to check that they are achieving full coverage. It may be that your tiler is a "dobber." He will butter adhesive onto the back of a tile and then place it in position. The correct method is to apply adhesive to the floor and then bed the tile into the adhesive.

So what can I do now?
The tiles were not laid correctly and rectification is needed. The damaged tile or tiles should be removed and replaced by the tiler or builder who is responsible. While they are on the job, a check should be done for any other tiles that are also drummy.

Problem:
Whenever people see cracks in their tiles, they immediately assume that the tiles are faulty. In reality, tiles are solid (not flexible) flooring and so if there are cracks appearing, it is a reaction to another cause. If your cracks run across several tiles in what appears to be lines, read on. If the cracks are more random, refer to another section of the most common tile issues. Cracks that run in lines across several tiles are due to movement in the substrate. There are structural problems that need attending to. Sure, you could cover the floor with vinyl or carpet and hide the cause, but there is still an issue that needs attending to.

What can cause the problem?
Excessive movement in the substrate will cause a crack in the tiled surface that runs through several tiles in a roughly straight line. If the tiles are laid over one slab of concrete, and a crack appears in the tiled surface, then that slab is moving and there is a structural issue. If the crack is where two slabs meet that were laid at different times, then there should be an expansion or movement joint at that junction in the substrate. Cracking here is because that movement joint was not carried through the tiles. If the cracking is along the junction of two different surfaces like where a timber and concrete floor meet, a movement joint is necessary and that must be extended through to the surface of the tiles. If the problem shows as several cracks along roughly straight lines when over a concrete slab. The concrete has not been left to cure for a sufficient time. (1 month per 25mm slab thickness) or a suitable flexible adhesive has not been used. Shrinkage cracks in the concrete have transferred through the tiles. Another cause could be "foundation rod stress" that can manifest itself during settling and curing of the concrete. This can cause superficial cracking in the concrete. If the tiles were laid without suitable flexible adhesive, the cracking can appear in the tiles. Note... even when a flexible adhesive is used, the cracking, shrinkage or movement can be more than the adhesive can take up.

So what can I do now?
Firstly, it needs to be determined if the cracking is only superficial and due to the slab shrinking and curing, or if there are structural issues, or if movement joints were not extended to the surface through the tiling. If the substrate cracking it is superficial and the concrete slab new, then undoubtedly the tiler has not used suitable flexible adhesives. The tiles should be replaced and correct adhesives used. If the expansion joints were not brought to the surface of the tiles, then that needs to be corrected. The damaged tiles need to be replaced and movement joints extended to the surface. This is also the case if the concrete slab was old, but had obvious, established cracks of 2mm or wider and the tiler did not make allowance for this movement.

Problem:
Structural movement in homes and buildings is a fact of life. Different substrates will move, settle, shrink or expand depending on the conditions. Also, some tiles can "grow" in size as they absorb moisture in the period shortly after manufacture. So, if tiles are laid without flexible adhesives and no allowance for expansion and contraction of the substrate, problems can develop. One situation that can develop is if tiles are laid onto concrete before it has had time to "cure" fully. The general rule of thumb is to allow one month per 25mm thickness in a concrete slab for it to "cure." Even then, the average house slab can take up to 2 years to fully cure (and shrink). If this movement is not allowed for by using the correct adhesives and including expansion joints, something has to give. There have even been reports of tiles exploding unexpectedly. This is due to extreme lateral pressures as the walls and floor move in different directions. And nobody is expecting their tiles to explode.

What can cause the problem?
Not using the correct flexible adhesive over a "green" concrete slab that is still curing. Your tile retailer will advise on the correct product to use. Not allowing for expansion or movement around the perimeter of a tiled area, and at 4.5 meter intervals in a grid pattern through the floor. Incorrect installation of movement joints. These must travel through the tile and adhesive to the substrate and must be fully filled with a flexible silicone or rubber compound.

So what can I do now?
Incorrectly laid tiles are solely the responsibility of the tiler or builder. So, you need to arrange for the tiler, or builder to make good. In the unlikely situation that the problem is discovered early, and a flexible adhesive was used and, some tiles have not actually exploded, or an area of tiles has not buckled, one solution can be to cut expansion joints around the perimeter. This is done by cutting 6mm off the edge of the tiles (through the tile and adhesive bed) and removing that strip. Then fill it with silicone. Although, this is not a guaranteed solution. Otherwise, the only remedy is to remove the tiles and re-tile the area correctly. The movement that would cause buckling prevents replacement of the buckled area, because the area to re-tile is smaller than it was originally, so the tiles won't fit back into a smaller space.

Problem:
If your floor tiles are "drummy" or hollow sounding, you really do need to take some action. Generally this situation will become obvious as soon as the tiles are laid. It means that the adhesive does not have a good bond between the tiles and the substrate or there are "voids" of missing adhesive under the tiles. If tiles are laid correctly and there is a 100% adhesive coverage, and the bond is sound, then the tiles effectively become one with the substrate. As the floor is used and subjected to foot traffic, the tiles that are not correctly laid will most likely break, crack, chip or fail in some other way. In extreme circumstances, the tiles will actually lift off the floor.

What can cause the problem?
Drummy or loose tiles can be caused by a number of reasons... Not enough adhesive under the tiles, or the adhesive has been, "dobbed" under the tiles. This leaves hollow "voids." The wrong adhesive has been used and it has not bonded to the tiles or substrate. Or, in wet areas, the adhesive is not suitable and has broken down. The adhesive has "skinned" before the tiles were laid. This means that the adhesive was put down and left too long and the surface has dried. This prevents a sound bond to the tile. If the suspect tiling is over a timber floor, then the incorrect adhesive may have been used. Special adhesive must be used for a permanent and sound bond over timber, and the instructions followed closely. Excess movement of the floor boards can also create a problem, especially if the adhesive is not a "flexible" product.

So what can I do now?
The bad news is that any "drummy" or loose tiles on a floor, will cause problems down the track. This situation is not a fault of the tiles. The builder, tiler or tile retailer must take responsibility. If the retailer specified the wrong adhesive, then that needs to be corrected. The first step is to talk to the store and check the suitability of the adhesive. If the tiler has supplied the adhesive and it is not suitable or he has let it "skin," or he has not prepared the floor correctly, then he needs to "make good." Likewise, if there is excessive, "bounce" in the timber floor, then the builder or tiler needs to rectify the project. The excessive floor movement should have been fixed before the tiles were laid.

Problem:
If your tiles sound hollow or "drummy" when tapped on, there is an installation issue. It may be that there is nothing to worry about, especially if they have always sounded that way. But if it is a situation that wasn't there before, and now areas of wall tiles are drummy, then it is certainly the symptom and lead up to a serious problem.

What can cause the problem?
Simply, incorrect tiling causes a drummy tile installation. If the tiler "dobs" the adhesive on the tiles he will not achieve 100% coverage on the back of the tile. The void behind the tile will be drummy. If the tiler lays the tiles in very hot conditions, or simply leaves the adhesive on the wall for too long before applying the tile, the adhesive will start to cure. This is called, "skinning" as the surface dries as loses it's tackiness and adhesion. This will cause a "drummy" sound if knocked because again, there is not a 100% adhesion. Excess water penetrating behind the tile can break down some wall tile adhesives. If this occurs for a prolonged period of time it will cause a failure. The first indication of this will be the "drummy" sound of the tiles. If your tiles have been adhered to an inappropriate waterproofing product, you can expect a tiling failure. This may be that the waterproofing material does not adhere to the substrate, or that the adhesive will not bond to the waterproofing itself.

So what can I do now?
None of the above situations are ideal and we would always recommend that the tiling be rectified by the builder or tiler responsible. Unfortunately the only way to fix this sort of problem is to retile the area again properly. If it is due to a waterproofing failure, that too needs to be re-applied. However, if the tiles sound drummy from first installation and it is only a few isolated tiles, you may be prepared to avoid the inconvenience of repair work. If so, talk to your builder or tiler and ask for a signed guarantee that if the tiling system does fail at some future date, that they will rectify the issue promptly and at no charge, if and when a failure occurs. If the installation seemed ok initially, but after some time (usually at least a year) the drumminess occurs, you need to prepare for repair work at your earliest convenience. The tiles may start to fall off the wall, but the damage to the substrate is the critical issue. Get in touch with your builder or tiler as soon as possible.

Problem:
Blisters on the surface, are a tile fault that will be obvious before laying them commences.

What can cause the problem?
As explained, sometimes faulty tiles can slip through the sorting and grading process in the factory.

So what can I do now?
Do not use the tiles. Call the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will gladly exchange them without fuss. It helps if you can check the side of the box for the printed batch number, so we can supply tiles that match the shade of your other tiles. We will also do a thorough check of our stocks from that batch to remove any others that may have slipped through on that day's manufacture.

What if the tiler has already laid the tiles?
Unfortunately, no claim can be made once the tiles have been laid. Generally, we can offer to supply tiles to replace the faulty ones, but we won't cover the costs to remove and re-lay these tiles. They should not have been laid in the first place. Your tiler knows not to lay faulty tiles, especially tiles with a clearly visible imperfection. Logic would question why a tiler would lay an unsatisfactory tile.

Problem:
From time to time, faults can occur in the manufacturing process of ceramic tiles. It may be as simple as contaminant dust in the kiln between batches. One way that a faulty batch can manifest itself is in a series of bubbles or dimples in the glazed surface. Does the surface of your tiles look like there has been a bubble of glaze, and the top has broken off? Does there appear to be groups of dimples on the surface? These faults are easily visible and somehow the tiles have slipped through he sorting process in the factory. Your tiler will know not install tiles that have imperfections like this. It is a manufacturing fault, and we will replace them without charge.

What can cause the problem?
As explained, sometimes faulty tiles can slip through the sorting and grading process in the factory.

So what can I do now?
Do not use the tiles. Call the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will gladly exchange them without fuss. It helps if you can check the side of the box for the printed batch number, so we can supply tiles that match the shade of your other tiles. We will also do a thorough check of our stocks from that batch to remove any others that may have slipped through on that day's manufacture.

What if the tiler has already laid the tiles?
Unfortunately, no claim can be made once the tiles have been laid. Generally, we can offer to supply tiles to replace the faulty ones, but we won't cover the costs to remove and re-lay these tiles. They should not have been laid in the first place. Your tiler knows not to lay faulty tiles, especially tiles with a clearly visible imperfection. Logic would question why a tiler would lay an unsatisfactory tile.

Problem:
Tiles are generally pretty tough and durable. But they are not indestructible! If a hard object is dropped onto a glazed tile, there is a chance of it chipping the tile. Naturally, the bigger, heavier, harder and sharper the object being dropped, and the greater the height, the more likely it is to chip the tile. Stones trapped in the soles of shoes and metal tips on stiletto heels can also chip tiles, because the effect can be a hard impact onto the tile over a very small area. A chip caused by impact will generally manifest as a crater in the glaze and chip through to the biscuit of the tile. A glaze imperfection or bubble that chips off will leave the bottom part of the bubble still glazed to the biscuit.

What can cause the problem?
It is not really all that common for tiles to chip. The reputation that ceramic tiles have for durability and strength generally leads a homeowner to assume that the tile must have a fault though, if chips do appear.

• Dropping any hard, sharp, heavy object onto a tile can chip the surface
• Stones trapped in the soles of shoes
• Metal nail or tips on stiletto heels
• Dragging furniture with metal tipped feet
• Chairs with steel legs and no canisters or rubber tips
• Knocks on the edges or corners of tiles that are not laid flat. Where one tile is slightly proud of the next we refer to it as, "lipping."

So what can I do now?
The only way to repair this situation is to remove the chipped tile and replace it, if the chip(s) are caused by impact...... Scrape out all the grout around the affected (chipped) tile. Use a small chisel and chop a hole in the centre of the damaged tile. Work your way outwards, but always chip towards the centre of the tile, gradually removing the tile. Replace the tile and grout (the builder should have left a few spares on the site for just this issue) If the chips appear to be a glazing fault or glaze bubbles that have chipped... Contact the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will arrange to inspect the installation.

Problem:
If your grouting has gone dark, or black, it is simply dirty. This does not mean that you don't keep a clean home or floor, but simply that the way you have been cleaning is not suitable for tiles. The most common cause of this is that people wash their floors using too much water and detergent. The dirt is washed off the tiles and collects in the grout joints. It settles in these mini gutters and dries out leaving a film of dirt and detergent. Each time the floor is washed again, this film builds up and eventually, the grout appears black. Truth is, the black is just a film of grime on the grout. In some areas where there is more ongoing dampness, like a bathroom, this film is an ideal breeding ground for mould.

What can cause the problem?
Cleaning the floor with too much water and detergent and then not rinsing thoroughly. We should explain here that the way detergent works is to encapsulate dirt and grease in a microscopic way. The reason we mix water with it is to enable this mini globules to be washed away. If we leave a floor wet without rinsing, that film stays on the floor and especially in grout joints. Whenever you wash a floor using any form of detergent, rinse it well with clean water. Most soiling on glazed ceramic tiles will lift off with plain, clean, warm water. The only thing we recommend that you add to the water is a drop or two of disinfectant to kill any germs, or a splash of vinegar. Any greasy or oily marks can be cleaned up as a spill. For overall cleaning, leave the detergent in the cupboard.

So what can I do now?
Purchase a bottle of Heavy Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner. Wash the floor (and rinse several times) to remove all the built up grime. From that time on, avoid detergents and just use warm water. But always use the water sparingly. There is no need to flood the floor. Once the floor is thoroughly clean and dry, it can be a wise decision to seal the grout joints with Grout Sealer. One light application using the trigger spray will seal the grout joints and make them water repellant and easy to clean for around 5 years.

Problem:
Under certain circumstances, a white powder can form on grout, especially on floor tiles. This is a natural phenomenon called "efflorescence." It is due to soluble salts rising to the surface of a cement based product. When they dry out on the surface, the remaining salts appear white and powdery. Efflorescence often manifests itself in the cement joints of new brickwork. Numerous studies have been made around the world to try to determine why it can appear on an installation, and not on another under seemingly identical conditions. The only things that we do know, are that it happens when Portland Cement is present and that there is no real cure for it. Efflorescence does clear up over time, unless there is an ongoing issue with rising damp from the substrate. It is defined as the, "migration of soluble salts." This is not due to substandard tiles, adhesives or grout, and generally, there is nothing to worry about.

What can cause the problem?
As explained, it is simply soluble salts that are present in the cement based product. This can be the concrete, mortar bed, tile adhesive or grout. These rise to the surface and as it dries, an annoying white powder remains on the surface. The grout is the weakest link in the floor surface, so that is where the salts migrate to the surface.

So what can I do now?
The only real solution is to brush the grout with a stiff bristled brush and vacuum away. Repeat this from time to time and generally, eventually it should just stop recurring. You can also wash the area with a 50/50 mix of water and Phosphoric acid. Apply, leave for 2 minutes and then rinse thoroughly. Some people advocate brushing the salts away and then applying a grout sealer. While these are great products and are worth using because they will help keep your grout clean and seal out dirt, these products generally won't always stop efflorescence. The only product that we have found that solves the problem most times, is Pro-Solve 10. Once applied will still allow vapor to transfer through to the surface, but not moisture. So, it allows the grout to "breathe." But, it is not guaranteed to always work. Also Aquamix a product called Ef- Ex which is specifically designed for this purpose.

Problem:
Porcelain is a generic name for a type of tile that has a base, or biscuit that is different to traditional clays. Many porcelain tiles are simply glazed ceramic tiles with a porcelain base. In reality, and every day use, this makes them no different to any other glazed tiles. What most people picture when they call a tile "porcelain" is an unglazed tile. These tiles have a honed, textured or polished finish and the surface is the same as the body of the tile. The color extends right through the tile. Whilst porcelain is very tough, very dense and virtually impervious to water (absorption of less than 1%) the surface can have minute, microscopic "pores" that can trap some staining products. This is especially true of polished porcelain tiles. After manufacture, each tile is polished with diamond based pads to bring up a shiny finish. In this process, the microscopic bubbles on the surface can be opened up. Think of these as minute cups in the surface. When a staining liquid is spilt, these cups fill up. But they are too small for regular washing to clean out.

What can cause the problem?
All unglazed porcelain tiles must be sealed. This is not a typical painted on surface sealer, but simply Teflon, or silicone based product that fills the minute pores or "cups" on the surface. Once these pores are full of sealer, staining products can't fill the pores. No porcelain sealer is actually left on the surface of the tile. If the tiles were not cleaned and sealed when they were laid, a spill can potentially stain the tile. If a cheap or inferior sealer was used, it may be washed out during regular cleaning. A staining type spill has been left for an extended period. All spills should be cleaned up quickly, as sealers only allow a limited timeframe before the stain penetrates through the sealer.

So what can I do now?
If your floor has not been sealed, it is simply a matter of Remove heavy stains with Poultice, water and a white nylon scourer pad. Follow the instructions and don't rush the job. Thoroughly clean the floor with Heavy Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner. Then seal with Pro-Solve 10. If you believe that the floor was already sealed Contact your tiler to identify the product that was used. Follow up with the supplier or manufacturer for find out what can be done to remove the stain. We would recommend using Heavy Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner. For bad staining use, Poultice, water and a white nylon scourer pad. Follow the instructions and don't rush the job. As with any tiles, to keep them clean, use warm water only, to which you can add disinfectant. The only prepared cleaner that should ever be used regularly is Concentrated Tile Cleaner. This is made for cleaning tiles and sealed porcelain tiles.

The tile shop (or tiler) said that sealer was not necessary!
Some porcelain is factory pre-sealed and does not need sealing but if anyone tries to tell you not to seal (or protect) any unsealed porcelain, do not listen to them. They are wrong and they misleading you.

Problem:
Glazed ceramic tiles are a great product and they are very easy to clean and maintain. When there seems to be a problem with your tiles always being dirty or when they seem to look dirty shortly after they have just been cleaned, don't panic. This is one of the most common causes for call outs that we have.

What can cause the problem?
There are two causes of "dirty" tiles. When your tiles are laid, the tiler must buff all the grout off the surface. If not, a grout "haze" remains on the surface. This, almost invisible, film of grout grabs dirt and traps it on the surface. The dirt can be washed away, but as soon as the surface is dry, the cycle starts again. The second reason is the detergent itself. If detergents are used when washing a floor (or anything else for that matter) the surface must be rinsed thoroughly. If a film of the soapy water is left to dry on the surface, it will actually leave a film of detergent. This traps dirt and appears dirty again very quickly. Over time, the film just builds up as layer on layer of detergent on the tiles. Often to the extent that the tiles actually appear to change color. To test for detergent build-up, pour a few spoons full of water on the floor. Scrub a small area with a green Jiffy pad. If you can get suds to appear, then you have a problem, but we can fix it easily.

So what can I do now?
The solution for both issues is the same. The floor needs to be cleaned properly using Heavy Duty Tile and Grout Cleaner. This will remove the dirt and any detergent build-up. It is vital to follow the directions, which require thorough rinsing after use of Heavy Duty Cleaner. Otherwise, you are just leaving the problem there again. Once cleaned and rinsed thoroughly, if you can still see a fine grout haze, which will need to be removed with Phosphoric Acid Cleaner with Poultice. (follow the directions carefully) Then you can expect to live with a hassle free, low maintenance and easy care floor for many years.

Cleaning tiles
To keep tiles clean, sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dust and grit. Spills will wipe away with warm, clean water. When you feel that you need to wash your tiled floor, use warm water with a drop or two of disinfectant or a little vinegar added to the bucket. Detergents are unnecessary. If you really feel that you need to use a purpose made cleaner, we supply Concentrated Tile Cleaner which is purpose made for ceramic tiles and is a soapless cleaner.

Problem:
Being a natural product that is kiln fired, there will always be some tiles in each batch that show some imperfections. Before packaging, tiles are sorted and any with visible imperfections are removed and graded and sold as seconds. A few will always slip through the system. These tiles are perfectly sound, but all the same are imperfect. The international standards allow 5% of any first grade consignment to have some visual imperfections. There are a few factories that will up to 15%. 5% means that 5 tiles may have some imperfections in each group of 100 tiles. The tiler will always put these tiles aside and use them when a cut tile is needed.

What can cause the problem?
If you have a tiling project that has obvious imperfect tiles installed, like some glaze missing on the edges, then it is simply because the tiler has not checked the tiles as he laid them. Defect tiles can slip through the factory. Faults like missing glaze on the edge of a tile, firing cracks, craters, bubbles, pinholes, smudged pattern, etc. are all visible things and the installer should put these tiles aside and not use them.

So what can I do now?
If the tiles have not been installed just take them back to the Retail location that you purchased them from or call the Service & Support Toll Free # and we will swap the tiles. Or, if you prefer, issue a credit. If the tiles have been installed we will re-supply you with replacements for the affected tiles. Your tiler will need to remove the faulty tiles and install the new ones. Visually imperfect tiles should never be installed unless specifically requested by the owner. Check the side of the box for the printed batch number, so we can supply tiles that match the shade of your other tiles. Unfortunately, we won't cover the costs to remove and re-lay these tiles. No repair claim can be made once the tiles have been laid.

Problem:
All tiles absorb water. The structure of the tile and the way it was made will determine just how much. Handmade terracotta tiles that are fired at low temperatures generally would have a high absorption rate (perhaps 15%) and porcelain tiles are known to have the lowest (down to as low as 0.1%). Whilst the glazed finish on glazed ceramic tiles is impervious to water, if there is a leak or excess moisture the tile may become wet from behind. This is often more evident in a harsh, wet area environment like a shower recess where wall tiles are often made with a softer biscuit (base). Because the glazed surface is not unlike a glass finish, if the tile biscuit is wet, the tile will appear darker on the face of the tile.

What can cause the problem?
Simply, water is managing to get behind the wall, or under the floor and soak into the tile. This can be due to a number of reasons.

• The shower recess was not waterproofed before tiling
• The waterproofing has failed
• There is a leak in the water pipes behind the wall
• The taps are not sealed and waterproofed where they meet the tiles
• The floor is flooding and not draining correctly
• Water is pooling on the floor of the shower and not draining away
• The grout is cracked or falling out

So what can I do now?
This can be a serious problem and needs to be attended to quickly. The longer that it remains unattended to, the more damage can be done to the substrate and structure of the home. If the home is still under warranty as a new home or renovation... Call your builder If the home is out of warranty period... Call a plumber to determine if there is a leak in the pipe-work or tapware Call a builder or tiler to repair the grout, silicone joints or other cause of the water leaking. If it is obvious that the problem is due to cracked, missing or very soft grout and silicone, you may like to repair it yourself. Talk to the Service & Support Toll Free # to receive a fact sheet with repair instructions. Regardless of your final solution, install nifty little gadgets called 'fluid aprons' around your taps. These are available from all good tile retailers. Once the cause is fixed, and the tiles are allowed to dry naturally, the dark shading will disappear.